If you went to Cappadocia, you went to the postcard. That's fine. The hot-air balloon photo is very nice. But southeast Turkey — specifically Diyarbakır — is the version of the country that hasn't been processed yet, and almost nobody is going.
The old city is ringed by black basalt walls that are older than most European capitals. The bazaar functions like a bazaar: loud, crowded, selling things to people who need them. Kebab joints with no English on the sign, plastic chairs, men watching football on a mounted TV in the corner. Guesthouses at eighteen dollars a night where the owner brings you tea because that's what you do, not because it's on TripAdvisor. The Hasan Paşa Hanı — a sixteenth-century caravanserai in the middle of the old city — has a courtyard where you can sit for a full hour and see exactly zero ring lights. I counted.
People skip it because the coverage is either political handwringing or total silence. Neither one tells you what's actually there. What's there is a functioning city with extraordinary food, cheap rooms, and a street life that hasn't been packaged for export. Southeast Turkey is not undiscovered. It's just not being sold to you. Go before that changes.